Cahuita

We spoiled ourselves by taking a "door to door"' shuttle service to travel between San Jose and Cahuita on the Caribbean coast. We arrived to find that our reservation exceeded our expectations! Our lovely cabina is built for the tropics, with only screens on the windows and the end gables. No need for glass windows in this heat, 27C. It is evening now, and we are listening to the howler monkeys, quite the racket, almost feel like we are part of a horror movie. The sound is a combination of howling wind and lions roaring. We don't intend to step outside until it gets light. (See the link "Alby Lodge" for details and pictures.)

Our cabina for the next 8 days

Here's how a 64 year young man celebrates his birthday!

Artist content by Karen, "Feet in Garden", only 10 colones a copy.

A Bump in the Road

After 3 nights in Alajuela, we felt caught up on our sleep and ready to go. We had 5 days to get to Nicaragua, and our reserved hotel in Granada, Dec 20. However, this was not to be!

When we took a taxi into San Jose on Dec 16, our plan was to purchase a ticket on the Tica Bus. This is an intra-country bus line that operates throughout Central America and into southern Mexico. They offer reserved seating, movies, A/C, and a bathroom on board. When I heard the word bathroom, I was sold!

But the first day that we could get a ticket was Dec 24!! TransNica, another bus company with similar amenities was also full until Dec 24. Apparently, I should have booked the Tica bus or TransNica bus long ago. Later we discovered that Nicaraguans who work in Costa Rica are travelling back to Nicaragua for Christmas. (Or as our taxi driver told us, one million Nicaraguans go home for Christmas, and two million return.) All carriers were booked, and the waits at the border could be as long as 5 hours! So after coming into San Jose, checking both intra-country bus companies, and opting NOT to pay $445+/person to fly San Jose to Managua, Nicaragua, we changed our plans.

My original plan had been to go to the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica and then enter Panama overland. Stay in Bocas del Toro, fly to Panama City and start the trip back. We are back to this plan, and it looks like we will have to suffer with a few weeks on the beach at Christmas rather than two weeks in Granada – I think we will survive.

Finding a hotel on the Caribbean coast

Shopping in San Jose

Before leaving San Jose on Dec 18, we had time to find our way around and observe the locals doing their Christmas shopping. Note that people on the pedestrian mall have someone watching over them - La policia! We may have security at home, but it’s not quite at this level yet.

Police presence everywhere

Departure/Arrival

Leaving Canada ...

At 4:30am Dec 12, we locked the front door in Victoria, and headed to the airport in a torrential downpour. We arrived in Toronto to the threat of freezing rain and snow. But thankfully, this didn’t happen. We had a comfortable room and a chance to connect with friends for dinner (Felice, Maria, and Linda). Next morning it felt like the trip was truly beginning.

Wearing our warmest combination of clothes, we were off to the airport to queue! First, for check-in, second for security, and third to buy our breakfast coffee at Tim Horton’s. (Perhaps we should have purchased that Tim Horton franchise in Edmonton after all.)

Looking out the window, it was easy to be motivated to be somewhere else.

Toronto Airport as we leave

Arriving in Alajuela ...
Alajuela is a 10min ride from the San Jose airport, whereas, San Jose is 30-45min away. Alajuela was a great place to start: small town. It was very easy to get oriented, and we had a great hostel, Hostel Maleku. The staff was extremely competent and helpful. Eloisa, in the foreground, is studying Business Administration, and loves her job at the hostel. She gets an opportunity to practise her English, and work the hours that she likes.

Eloisa and co-worker, Hostel Maleku, Alajuela



Warning sign at Hostel Maleku: Don't hit me with your head

There were lots of interesting people staying at the hostel from all over the world: Germany, France, Netherlands as well as North American locations Vancouver, and Oregon, Florida. In the common kitchen, there was always someone to talk to, and it was a great way to get “real” travel advice – time to chat and find out where people have been so far, what places they liked and didn’t like.

Karen, Stefan (Germany), Eric (France)

Preparation

Independent travel takes a lot of preparation. Rather than working directly with a travel agent, and choosing from a list of possible travel options, locations, and prices, the independent traveler must do the research, make all of the decisions and reservations. While this may seem daunting to some, it is our preference.

So where to this time? We both wanted an opportunity to practise and study Spanish again, and we didn't want to return to Mexico where we have travelled often. With these factors in mind, research began. What countries? What destinations within each country? What are the entry requirements? How do we get there and how long do we stay? What are the costs for local transit, hotels, food, and activities?

The final decision was Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama for 3.5 months, Dec 2010 to March 2011. Key destinations will include: in Costa Rica - San Jose, Nicoya peninsula, perhaps the Caribbean coast; in Nicaragua - Granada, Leon, San Juan del Sur, Ometepec; in Panama - Panama City, canal zone, Pacific beaches, Boguette, Bocas del Toro.

Or at least, these are the places that seem of interest before leaving. In the end, the bus may take  us somewhere different than planned ... details to follow.