Back in Victoria

We arrived home Feb 8. We had planned to travel until the end of March, but decided to return early for a few reasons. Our house sitters did not come to Victoria due to illness; and after 2 months, we were ready to return.

It was a good trip. We got a good sense of the three countries, and hope to return in the future – most likely to Nicaragua, our favourite.

Tica Bus Escapade

On Friday Feb 4 with our ticket in hand, we left our Granada hotel and headed to the Tica Bus terminal ready for our return trip to San Jose, CR. We expected the trip to be uneventful and that we would arrive in San Jose about 9pm – not so!

The bus was 20min late arriving in Granada, and shortly after leaving Granada, we were informed that the air conditioning wasn’t working. The steward apologized for the inconvenience and opened the roof vents. Fortunately, we were seated on the shady side of the bus, and since it was now 2:00pm, we felt that it wouldn’t be too uncomfortable. However, when we reached Rivas, an hour from Granada and only 25km from the Costa Rican boarder, there was more bad news.

In the centre of town, the driver stopped the bus on the side of the road, a mechanic appeared from somewhere to assess the situation. He worked for awhile, but in the end the assessment was that the compressor was not working and we had no brakes as well as no air conditioning and we couldn’t open the luggage compartments. After some time, some looking, some head shaking and cell phone calls, finally the verdict. The bus was disabled and could not be fixed. We had to wait for a replacement bus that would be sent from Managua. Sigh!

Hmm ... what to do?

While we waited, we had time to eat at a nearby chicken restaurant and meet the English speaking passengers on the bus. One of these passengers was a Nicaraguan coffee farmer named Sheldon who spoke perfect Spanish – our translator.

Lots of time to talk and get everyone's story. From left to right, Annie, from Montreal; Dayna, from Nebraska; Karen; Seldon, from Nicaragua.

About 7:00pm almost five hours later, a replacement bus did arrive. We boarded, bags were transferred and we set out again. International border here we come!

Crossing this border is a mysterious three step process. For us, it took 2 hours, but apparently, it can easily take much longer.

Step one: The Tica bus steward collects all passports and fees, and takes these to the immigration officials on arrival. Passengers get off the bus and wait until an immigration official appears with the passports that now contain an exit stamp. He reads the names, one at a time, and each person comes forward to collect his or her passport and re-board the bus.

Step two: The bus with all passengers aboard drives a short distance into Costa Rican territory. Everyone gets off, and enters the immigration office to get an entry stamp. At this point, there are signs that state that it is a requirement to show proof that you have a exit ticket from Costa Rica, a flight, a bus ticket, etc. But this policy is inconsistently applied. One of the officers didn’t ask, and one did. But in practice, I think it doesn’t really matter what you show the person even if you are asked. For example, he accepted an outdated internet printout for a flight that I had actually cancelled.

Step three: Now the bags. Once you have the entry stamp, immigration staff can inspect and open your bags if they choose. For this crossing, we got our bags, and lined up ready for inspection. But after a few minutes, we were directed to return to the bus, and no one examined any of the bags. I guess the performance was more important than what actually is done.

About 1:30am over four hours after leaving the border, we arrived safely in San Jose. We stayed at the Tica bus hotel at the bus terminal and made our way to Alajuela the next morning. Two days here will give us time to catch up on our sleep so that we are ready for the flight.

Granada - a Gem

Tomorrow, Feb 4, we leave Granada. It has been a wonderful place to spend time. It is a colonial town that reminds us very much of colonial towns in Mexico such as Oaxaca, Merida and Patzcuaro. As you can see in the pictures, streets are narrow, houses are colourful and completely enclosed. While some are in need of repair or falling down, others are beautiful. From the street, there is no hint of the beautiful gardens and courtyards that are hidden within.

It is also a wonderful place to walk, take pictures and observe the daily activities of Nicaraguans. While at the same time, we can spoil ourselves with wonderful restaurants that serve food from around the world. Granada is a major tourist destination and certainly not typical of all of Nicaragua, but it still has a low key charm. Hopefully, this will last for some time. It is a place we would definitely come back to again.

NOTE: If the pictures below do not view properly, double click to see the slideshow in a different viewer.

Granada Excursions

Around Granada there are lots of things to see and do. We visited the white towns (pueblos blancos) including San Juan de Oriente where we bought some pottery; Apoyo, the crater lake; Mombacho, an inactive volcano visible from the town; Las Isleta, a group of 350 small islands that were formed when Mombacho erupted 10,000 years ago; and coffee plantations.

Buying bread in Pueblos Blancos with Sandy & Chris from Michigan.

Potter at work in San Juan de Oriente.

Store owner, Duilio Jimenez, explaining the process.

Duilio with Lance and some of his beautiful pottery.

Hiking on Mombacho, the clouds cleared long enough to get this picture of Las Isletas.

Laguna Apoyo, a cater lake.

Our Oasis at Hotel Xalteva

Since we knew we were planning to shorten our trip, we spoiled ourselves with a two week stay at Hotel Xalteva (pronounced ‘alteva’). This is a 9 unit condo/hotel complex, built by an American couple Jay and Cathy from Vermont. They came here about 5 years ago, fell in love with the town, decided to stay. But being a high-energy guy, Jay needed a project. He bought some land and proceeded to build. He has sold some of the units, and others are for rent. It is located a short walk from the main square so all amenities are close by including the main market and restaurants.

Here we have coffee and conversation with fellow guests each morning. People are from US, Canada and Spain. Then it’s time for a walk, some Spanish study, a dip in the pool, perhaps an excursion, a rest, and then either prepare some food in the fabulous kitchen or choose a restaurant for dinner – a completely decadent existence.

For pictures, click here. Select gallery and "Hotel Xalteva".


Jay, owner and builder, purchasing fruit from a fruit seller who visited the hotel every day.



The hotel's resident parrot.

Bus to Nicaragua

While I was still coughing, it was time to move on! On Monday Jan 17, we boarded the Tica bus to Granada Nicaragua. Twenty-eight (yes, 28!) hours later, we arrived at the hotel we had planned to stay in for Christmas, Hotel Terrasol. The weather was bright and sunny and the town is perfect! It’s a great walking town with lots services, and a perfect picture around every corner. We were both very glad to be out of Panama City and have some new places to explore.

 For Tica Bus information, click here

Waiting to board in Panama City. Definitely NOT a `chicken` bus.



Fellow bus travellers: Roberto, born in Nicaragua, and daughter, Margaret, born in Panama. They have lived in Canada for over 20 years, Kelowna for the last 10. You can find friendly translators everywhere! 

 

Waiting to re-board after crossing the border. Within the 28hr travel time, we made two border crossing: Panama into Costa Rica; Costa Rica into Nicaragua. Each took about 2 hours. A nice break to get out of the bus and stand for awhile.

Reflections on Panama City

The building boom has stopped. From our hotel room I could see 20 cranes on skyscrapers, not one of them moved for the whole three weeks that we were in Panama. Does this reflect a future price correction?

Panama City skyline.

There is a 20 year tax holiday on new homes in Panama City. This has attracted many foreigners to the area. Unfortunately, with no taxes come other problems. During our stay there was garbage everywhere (the current garbage disposal contract had expired and was being renegotiated). Water shortages were common, often no water for several hours, and there was a drinking ban on all water, boil before drinking. Excessive turbidity in the local water reservoirs was caused by torrential rains this year making the drinking water non potable. A consulting firm from Germany was working on the problem. Streets were full of pot holes, grates missing from sewer drains, and sidewalks uneven and often nonexistent. Maybe paying some property taxes is not such a bad idea.

Panama City is a party town. Full of casinos, nightclubs, bars and ladies of the night (many take advantage of breast and buttock enhancements). The city attracts entrepreneurs from the USA to fill this growing demand for entertainment. We met one such entrepreneur Toni, Italian ,born in New York City, and a former strip club operator from Miami. He has opened a coffee bar (Java House) and an entertainment bar called Bongos, and is in the process of moving all his business to the new wild west (the heat in Miami is getting too hot). He and his brother David, (I call them the Soprano brothers) regaled us with stories during our morning coffee each day. I will not repeat them since I am not sure if sufficient time has passed (Statute of Limitations to apply) for them to avoid apprehension and prosecution.

Tony, on the left, and his brother David.